Updated: Mar 1, 2022
When I decided to learn to make my own pattern to match "my body measurements", that was the best decision I made to up my sewing game. I had attempted many YouTube videos only to come up disappointed with the results...still didn't represent my body and the adjustments I would make to commercial patterns would come up the same: ill fitting. I have a dear friend in the sewing community would always see the fitting issue in my shoulders and she would tell me what needs to be adjusted. My jackets would have a bubble right beside the armscye (armhole) and my shoulder seam would be on my arm rather than straight up on my shoulder where it should be. Since making my own pattern, not only do I have a bodice and trouser pattern that fit my body, the mere process of learning how to take accurate measurements and apply them to paper, helped me understanding the design lines of commercial patterns overall.
Here's the thing: we are taking a flat piece of paper and using our scissors and sewing machine to create curves and openings for our arms and legs and other curvy areas. And then all of these curves have to be in proportion to our bodies to create the look we want when looking in the mirror.
This is an opportunity to learn how to dispel the myths and create your own beautiful garments that fit from your measurements. Continue reading to learn more, or if you already know, click to book your session and secure your seat in January 2022.
The Big 4 commercial pattern companies - Simplicity, McCall, Vogue, Butterick - all use the pattern block of a 5'5" - 5'6" body with a B cup in the bodice. That's where they start and grade out from there. You may have seen some patterns that will provide pieces for various cup sizes - allowing for more customization in the bust area. Some pattern categories provide for petite sizes, which state height of 5'2", still B cup with allowances for various cup sizes on various designs. The independent pattern companies have done an amazing job with inclusivity of sizing especially for women's patterns. Yay!
Once you find a pattern (brand, category) that you can make, it fits (with or without your adjustments) that's a pattern brand that you can stick with, create your own custom designs and feel good about when you walk out the door. Many have this success.
This includes the independent pattern makers that have given us so many options for fitting and design...I do love Closetcore Patterns, Ellie & Mac, Greenstyle, Friday Pattern Co and others. Take the time to look around the internet streets for pattern companies that have inspirational designs and try them out.
In the meantime, if you have been considering what your results would be from drafting your own pattern block, sloper, moulage (several names) - you've come to the right place and I'd love to help.
Wanna learn more?
***Special Invitation*** Pattern Drafting Class at SewCreative Lounge
3711 Rhode Island Avenue Mt Rainer, MD 20712
Drafting your own pattern gives you the following results:
Taking accurate measurements (with another person's help)
Understand how your body measurements apply to the flat pattern lines
Determine where your areas of adjustment will be in relation to commercial patterns
Or, create your own designs using your custom pattern, whether bodice, skirt, or trouser
Confidence that your garment will have the fit you desire because it's made with your exact measurements.
Now here's the work:
Yes, it is lots of numbers - but you and your calculator can do it
SKILL LEVEL: Fearless/Advanced Beginner - to - Intermediate/Advanced
Nikki's expertise was exactly what I needed to successfully draft my very own bodice sloper. She guided me through each step of the process and I'm now guaranteed to create tops that fit my unique measurements! - Darlena
"Make My Own Pattern" is a private session and can be done in 3 segments, total 8 hours - we decide the schedule. Session can be done virtual via Zoom or in person if you live in the metro-Atlanta area.
The session includes: Measuring/Drafting
Tracing/Cutting the Muslin
Creating a Final Sloper
How to Determine What Pattern Size to Cut 30-day Follow-up Session
Drafting Supplies/Tools needed:
A person to help take your measurements
Tape measure Calculator
Straight Ruler (clear is best)
Pencil w/good eraser!
Paper Scissors Note Pad to record measurements
Muslin Supplies/Tools needed:
3yds Cotton/Non-stretch Fabric
Double Tracing Wheel
Fabric Scissors Thread (contrast to fabric)
30" separating zipper (bodice sloper)
9" zipper (skirt sloper)
Since the rise of virtual sewing lessons, I've taught many family members how to take measurements. They have been around the sewing room for years and they know more than you think! Ask them to help. Wear a well-fitting bra, tank top and leggings, or anything that will give you accurate measurements. During the adjustment segment of our session, your helper may be needed again.
If you are planning for a virtual session, please don't spend a ton of money, but a stand for your mobile camera for me to see your table would be valuable. OR, if you can tape your drafting paper to the wall and do it standing up with good lighting, that's a good option. We'll make up the rest as we go!
Ready to up your sewing game?
My fit for garment making has significantly improved after this class! I wish I had done this a long time ago! Nikki is a great instructor. She made sure I was comfortable, and you could ask questions when after the class was completed. I highly recommend booking this course with Nikki.
Hi, I'm Nikki and if I've learned, I must teach! I've been sewing since a child and after a career of fashion retail, media and technology sales, I decided to return to my love of sewing and share my ancestral gift with others. Years and years of practical application of sewing, alterations and designing for others now allows me to help other sewists dispel the myths of how to create a custom fit in their garments and it's simply to make their own pattern. My instructors have taught me much over the years: H. Gabriel, Kenneth King and my Granny...and the one consistent thing was the measurement numbers don't lie. Take accurate measurements and understand the rules of the body's curves and you'll have a custom garment that fits. YouTube is wonderful, then learners plateau and need another level of understanding - this is why I'm doing live virtual sessions and in-person for those in the metro-Atlanta area.
I look forward to working with you!
How long does this session take? We will schedule 3 days of 3-hr sessions based on our schedules. When booking, pick one date and when we meet, we will confirm additional days on the calendar. Very flexible!
Do you teach this session in-person?
Yes, I'm in the Atlanta area and you can book an in-person session. If you prefer a virtual session on Zoom, we will schedule accordingly. I sometimes each at local studios, so look for me in your area soon!
What all is included in the session?
You will learn to take accurate body measurements - it's best to have another person help.
You will draft the bodice or trouser pattern, using calculations based on your measurements.
You will trace the patterns to muslin fabric and sew the pattern together and try on for fit - we will then make necessary adjustments.
You will learn how to finalize your sloper and begin using to customize your garments.
We will also schedule a 30-day follow up session.
How well do I have to know how to sew?
This is not a sewing class, it's more technical and an intermediate to advanced level of sewing understanding is valuable. Fearless/Advanced Beginners must have a good understanding of their machine and general sewing.
I need help fitting pants, would this session be helpful?
Most helpful! A Trouser Sloper will answer all of your fit issues with making pants. Its your pattern and you can use it to make trousers by itself, or compare to commercial patterns and make accurate adjustments.
Where do I enroll?
Register for your date at sewingmystyle.com and share which sloper you want to make, the bodice or trouser.
Will you record our Zoom sessions together?
When we work together, you will do all the work with very little homework. You will have access to me for questions and follow-up...so there is no need for recording.